shu uemura

Make up Brushes – My Collection + Review

I thought I’d write a post on brushes since I touched on the topic recently with my purchase from Koyudo. Originally meant to be one post, I have divided this into two because of length. This is part one, a run through of what I have and my thoughts of them. The second part will be what brushes to buy. This is a long, pic-heavy post!

I might have mentioned briefly in the past about how I started my collection (a humbly sized compared to collectors) but here’s all the history in one post 🙂

I bought brushes individually right from the beginning and heeded the advice of others who say to buy the best you can afford. Right from the bat I knew it was an investment so I started with shu uemura (this was like 20 years ago). I was quite a fan of theirs at the time anyway and even used their skincare range. Even back then I was told their brush prices climb up yearly and if you’re going to buy them anyway it’s better to get them early. So!

I started with 2 shadow brushes (sable, synthetic, both paddle style), 1 powder, 1 cheek (pony, also paddle style), 1 lip, the 5R (kolinsky) for socket and I think a spoolie. I still have all of them with me (although I LOST the 5R during a move). I have retired the cheek and powder brushes which started to shed gently a few years ago. The sable shadow brush is also coming loose at the ferrule, but otherwise still good. Considering they’re 20+ years old that’s not too bad. If you take good care of your brushes you can count on using them for 10 years no problem.

I was perfectly happy with these until I started experimenting more with makeup. So I added brushes like kabuki, stippling, eyeliner, dome shaped face brushes and so on and so forth. I’ve tried brushes from brands like MAC, Bobbi Brown in the early days, and in more recent years Sue Devitt, Lunasol, RMK, Rae Morris. And I never bought a set until Real Techniques came along. They’re so affordable and I believe at that time there were some brushes you could only get in the sets. I tried some Sigma, Sephora and zoeva brushes too. The last brushes I bought before the small Koyudo haul are Hakuhodo brushes when they were at the Bon Marché for a limited time.

This is the first time I counted how many brushes I have:brush-all

Little by little I have accumulated 63 brushes (59 in the picture above, a few didn’t make it in there but will be seen later in the post). I’m kind of surprised myself. They look so manageable sitting in glass candle jars and whatnot and you don’t even know how many you really have until you lay it out like that. Lucky the Man wasn’t at home when I took the picture. Even though I suspected as much that’s one big visual confirmation that I have too many. I really only use a handful regularly, and others are there when the regulars are dirty and I haven’t got the time to clean them 😛

I will try to be brief and go through the brushes as quickly as I can.

Since I forgot to take a close up shot, in the top left hand corner are 3 kabuki brushes. The smallest one is a freebie from Dior. This one came from the Nude Bronzer, I have another from Nude Air powder. The bigger one is MAC, the laquered one is Bobbi Brown. I don’t have a detail pic for these. The MAC one has longer bristles. Otherwise in terms of use they are (BB & MAC) similar to me and interchangeable.

Onto the rest of the brushes.

brush-rm (2)
I use the medium and fine point shader a lot. I probably reach for them the most, out of habit and because they work really well for me and suit my eye shape. With hooded eyes there’s just not much room to work with and most shadow brushes are too big.
Radiance is a nice brush, it works like a dense buffer brush. You can apply your foundation with it although I’ve never tried and have used it mainly as a dense buffing brush to polish the foundation and get a nice finish.
The smudger brush is soft and not scratchy like the Laura Mercier one but for some reason I just don’t reach for this often.
I really like the lip brush.
Precision liner I bought with the intention of mastering the flick. But I actually got better results with a push brush. It’s down to technique I suppose. I’ll keep practicing.

A word on these in case you didn’t know, these have magnets at the end of the brush and are designed to be displayed/arranged with a metal plate. They clump together if you store them flat or in a bag. The good thing though is I can easily hang them to dry in the kitchen 😛 I use the lid of an old coffee tin to store them upright.

Here’s a closer look:


Below is the Ultimate Cheekbone, which is exactly what it says, perfect for contouring that area.


My Hakuhodo and Koyudo brushes:

brush-koyu-haku (more…)

Spring 2016 Purchases – Part 3

Part 3! Brushes. I picked up a few brushes from Koyudo (link takes you to official Japanese site). Why Koyudo and not Hakuhodo/Chikuhodo etc? Well from the posts I’ve come across in my research they seem to make some very affordable yet good quality brushes. I wanted to get something from Tanseido as well. Also, I was placing on order with someone in Japan so I thought I might as well pick something that’s relatively harder to get.



In the end I stayed with the same brand. From top to bottom, they are:
BP 016 – Cheek brush, Saikoho goat hair
BP 036 – Eye shadow S Kolinsky hair
BP 043 – Flat eyeliner Kolinsky hair
C 011 – Eye shadow R Goat hair
Princess Brush – Foundation Goat hair

The BP are Koyudo’s ‘high class’ series of brushes and the C series is the standard. BP uses higher quality hair.
C011 is a pencil brush, and resembles the BP036 at a glance. But the C is less densely packed and is thus more suited for blending or smoking shadows out. BP036 on the other hand reminds me a lot of my shu 5R, which is also a kolinsky brush. It has a lot more resistance and I intend to use it as I did my 5R, for socket work.

016 has a lot of great reviews. It’s an all rounder brush and very versatile.
043 is my favourite eye liner brush shape. I loved using the MAC 212 and this one is even smaller and allows more precision. I would have bought replacement of the 212 if it weren’t for the eye gouging price of MAC in France. I even bought one of the holiday sets that had the 212 in it knowing full well the sets are usually inferior in quality, but I thought I’d take a chance anyway because it’s one thing to change the hair quality for a big powder or blush brush but hey, it’d be pointless to screw the 212 up. Well I was wrong. The one in the set was sub-par.

Here are the brushes washed: (more…)

Holiday Haul & Thoughts on the Collections

So the Christmas collections are all here finally and while I may have been busy I have made time to do some shopping. Here are my selections:
Top row, left to right: 
Giorgio Armani Eyes to Kill 4 Color Shadow Palette in #1 Maestro, Dior Diorific lipstick in #037 Diorling, YSL Boréal Palette Polar Light
Bottom row, left to right:
shu uemura karl for shu smoky velvet palette, Bourjois BB Cream 8 in 1 foundation, Chanel polish in 637 Malice
They are all limited edition items, apart from the Bourjois foundation. Detailed reviews will come soon, and Maestro palette will be the first since I got it a few weeks ago and have had the time to use it. (more…)