biologique recherche

Skincare Regime Update – December 2016

The last update was April and lots of changed since then. Pretty much everything I’m using is different!

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1. Hadalabo Tamagohada AHA+BHA mild exfoliating face wash foam (160ml)
2. Medicated Sekkisei lotion (360ml) – Made in Japan
3. Hadalabo Gokujyun Medicated Skin Conditioner lotion (170ml) – Made in Japan
4. Melvita Nectar Supreme eye & lip contour cream (0.5fl oz.) [almost 15ml] – Made in France
5. ettusais Premium Amino Caviar Cream (90g) – Made in Japan

1. I left my Muji foam cleanser behind in a hotel but I just want to say that cleanser worked well with my Luna. Bought this as a replacement and I don’t feel anything special towards it. I like that it dispenses ready-made foam so I save some time. I’m only *just* reading now that people have been reporting the cleanser drying their skin … perhaps that’s why my eye area have been itchy the past few days?? I’ve been using it for about two weeks now though only once a day until recently. Tamogohada = more or less the image of your skin will look like as smooth as a peeled hard boiled egg if you use this. I guess.
2. Still loving this and I will continue using this (although I’m tempted to try Albion’s Skin Conditioner). I still have one bottle of P50 left, which I’ll reintroduce when the weather gets warmer.
3. This is my extra hydration step and I’ll probably use a serum when this bottle is done, or one of the many packets and bottles of samples from different brands that I have. This particular formula (green bottle) of the Hadalabo Gokujyun range is supposed to moisturize and prevent pimples from appearing. Hormonal spots are something else so this item doesn’t really help me much there. I’m not sure if it’s sold in Hong Kong? I haven’t seen it anywhere I went (the usual suspects Watson’s/Manning/log-on don’t have it).
4. The formula is nothing special but this is my first experience with these kind of tips. On the days when I have time to slowly tap tap tap gently with the tip I do find a difference to just applying with fingers.
5.I took this with me to Hong Kong, knowing the weather is less dry than Paris. I was almost finished with my It’s Skin Snail Cream anyway and thought it’s a good time to open the next moisturizer in the stash. There are many little beads in the moisturizer (hence ‘caviar’) and you just have to make sure you rub all of them in. Sometimes there are strays and if you miss one they can appear as bizarre looking but perfectly round tiny ball of flesh. I’ve continued using this since I got back and interestingly it still does a decent job of moisturizing my skin in this completely different climate. I honestly didn’t expect it to perform this well. I’ll do a review on this separately.

I no longer have a really different morning/evening routine. Only that I throw in a makeup remover before the regular cleanser at night. That’s usually either of these: (more…)

June Empties

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Bifesta Cleansing Express Eye Makeup Remover (145ml) – [can’t find the fabrication country]
Here’s a link to the official website in English. It contains moisturizing ingredients and vitamins. I’ve used this before. It’s a double-layer remover that you shake before use. Very efficient at removing all types of eye makeup.
Repurchase? I use oil makeup removers now (and double cleanse) so a separate remover is a little redundant in my regime. But I definitely recommend this remover.

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 (150ml) – Made in France
You can read about my thoughts on the BR lotions here. This lasted me 3 months with twice daily use, so the same as P50V. I still have a backup bottle of this but I’m going to take a break from acids because of my IOPE bio essence – I feel I should use that as my first step after cleansing and thus it’s not ‘compatible’ with an acid toner. I don’t feel ‘right’ applying P50 after the essence. Anyway! This will be a chance to see what P50/Bio essence does.
Repurchase? TBD (more…)

Biologique Recherche P50V + P50

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As promised here’s the separate, longer post on the Biologique Recherche lotions. I finished the P50V last month, a bottle of 150ml that lasted me three months with twice daily use.

This lotion comes in several strengths. P50W is the weakest, then P50V and the full strength is P50. The original formula with phenol is no longer available in Europe but it is in the USA and is sold as “P50 1970”. Since Biologique Recherche isn’t the most accessible brand (even here in France – I got this via a hotel spa) and is hardly the cheapest, there are those who say it’s not worth going through the trouble if you can’t get the 1970 formula. I don’t have an answer to that at this moment but here is what Carolin Hirons wrote about the newer formula. I do believe she prefers the original phenol one. I also found this website, and there you’ll see a detailed comparison between the two formulas that should be of help to those debating which one to get. I must say that I am curious to try the 1970 formula, but perhaps after the P50.

My experience with the milder P50V (which I believe is the same price as the stronger P50) is generally positive – I think it’s a good acid toner, never had any problems with breaking out or ‘purging’. Improvements on skin is hard to gauge, I didn’t experience any miracle overnight change, but bear in mind I have had some sort of Retinol/AHA product in my regime constantly for a few years now so maybe there’s that. I still get my hormonal spots so this hasn’t stopped it from happening but I seriously doubt anything will, short of taking medication. However I have noticed that when I do get the breakouts they are fewer in number (one usually or two) and they seem to be smaller and generally easier to get rid off. There was this breakout last month with multiple zits happening across the face but I think that’s a reaction to something new I introduced both in my skincare and diet.

I started P50 right away after finishing the P50V and curiously, it burns less than P50V on flakies – I remember P50V stung when I applied it over flakies on the nose when I had the cold but the P50 didn’t. On the other hand I also noticed sometimes it burns a little more when I’m not as gentle during my washing or drying. It also smelled less vinegar-y than P50V. The ingredients are different:

P50V:
Water (Aqua), Gluconolactone, Propylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Lactic Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Vinegar (Acetum), Magnesium Chloride, Citric Acid, Malic Acid, Phytic Acid, Spongilla Lacustris Spicule Extract, Yeast Extract (Faex Extract), Cochlearia Armoracia (Horseradish) Root Extract, Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, Juglans Regia (Walnut) Seed Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Rumex Acetosa Leaf Extract, Sulfur, Sodium Salicylate, Salicylic Acid, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Metabifulfite, Sodium Benzoate

P50:
Water (Aqua), Gluconolactone, Lactic Acid, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Citric Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Magnesium Chloride, Malic Acid, Vinegar (Acetum), Phytic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Cochlearia Armoracia (Horseradish) Root Extract, Arctium Lappa Root (Burdock Root) Extract, Rumex Acetosa Leaf Extract, Myrtus Communis Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Allium Cepa (Onion) Bulb Extract, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Oil, Sulfur, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

Just for fun I’m comparing that to Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic 10% because it’s the last acid toner I used :
Water, Glycolic Acid, Methyl Gluceth-20, Propylene Glycol, Alcohol, Lactic Acid, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Chamomile Recutita Flower (Chamomile) Extract, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera), Sodium Borate, Sodium PCA, Polysorbate 20, Allantoin, Ascorbyl Phosphate, Phospholipids, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin.

The P50 range for me is good for general upkeep and for minimizing the ‘damage’ when hormonal spots happen. My skin at the moment has better clarity and texture compared to this time last year, and although I can’t say how much of it is due to P50 I do believe it plays a part. I have some potions that are meant to be used immediately after cleansing so perhaps I will take a break from P50 then and we will see what happens!

Skincare Regime Update – April 2016

The last post on my regime was posted in mid-February but to be honest I was using those products for a while before I finally managed to make the post. Since I’ve finished up a bunch of stuff last month I thought I’d do a quick update to reflect what’s in current rotation.

My skin’s been doing great lately, if I do say so myself. It appears a bit smoother and feels softer than before. I still have my problem areas (old scarring) and those aren’t going anywhere anytime soon. But other than that I’m generally happy about state it is in.

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Morning:
1. Estee Lauder Perfectly Clean
2. Biologique Recherche P50
3. Kose Sekkisei Lotion Excellent
4. Hadalabo Shiroshizuku Whitening Serum
5. La Roche-Posay Redermic [C]
6. Nature Republic Snail eye cream
7. IOPE Ultimate Hydro Cream (more…)

March Empties

As usual I’ll get the finished hair/body samples out of the way first:
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Nothing new to write about here. I’m almost done with all the samples, I think I’ve only got body lotions and cream left afterwards. Oh and soaps but I’ll get to those later.

Here’s the real deal for March:

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John Frieda Full Repair hydrate + rescue Deep Conditioner (250ml) – [unknown]
“With Inca Inchi Oil” it says. This ingredient appears in the middle of the ingredient list. First six ingredients: Aqua, Ceterayl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetyl Esters. Parfum.
You leave this on after shampooing for 2-5 minutes before rinsing off. My hair feels soft and silky after using this but we all know it’s the ‘cone. Smells nice but it doesn’t last on my hair. If you don’t mind ‘cones this is nice once in a while. I was using this almost everyday as a conditioner substitute and that was perhaps too much …
Repurchase? Nah.

Steam Cream (75ml) – Made in UK
I’ve had this for too long; left it at work for use mainly as a hand cream so that’s perhaps 1-2 a day, if that. However this is a multi-purpose cream that you can use for the face, body and even hair (just a tiny knob). I’ve used this once on the face but it was bad timing – I still don’t know what broke me out. Anyway you can read all about the cream on their website where they explain how the cream is made, why it’s steamed and the ingredients and so on.
I finished the rest of my jar using it as a body cream. I didn’t feel it so much when using on my hands but must say that I was impressed how quickly this was absorbed. And I mean I felt the cream has really sunk in, almost like my skin drank it up. It was moist and supple afterwards, and it lasted for a while.
This has lots of essential oils so if you have sensitive skin (or a sensitive nose! smells ) just be aware of that:

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Repurchase? I didn’t think I would but yes, and I have. There was a promotion going on at the moment (2 for 26.95 euros, 1 is usually 17.50 euros each). Interestingly these are cheaper in Japan where they also come in a mini size and have more designs.
… I have since received my new jars and these ones are made in Japan. Also the best before date is very short – I have a few months to use them up, whereas when I bought the old one I had 2 years?! Ingredients are the same.

Yves Rocher Apple Delice Silky Body Cream (150ml) – Made in Ireland
Pretty happy to use this up in such a short time. This was part of my small 2015 holiday haul. This has a nice texture and smells like apple tart. The only reason I rushed to finish this is because of the scent – it’s comforting and more suitable for winter; probably too heavy for summer use. I used the same logic when I decided to save the Bronze Goddess souffle for summer. Anyway this has a nice formula and if Yves Rocher makes this in a different scent (they probably do) I wouldn’t mind buying those.
Repurchase? Yes (more…)

Current Skincare Regime

Some time ago I wrote about my old skincare regime and promised to finish it with reviews on the moisturizers and special care items (this was the post that started this series). But I no longer see the point of that because most of the products have been reviewed separately elsewhere and in empties posts (search for Hydraluron, Toleriane, PTR Glycolic Acid moisturizer, Algenist for example). So I thought I’d share instead the current skincare routine instead. Before going to that though, here’s the old list again –

The Day Routine:
– POD Liquid Detox
– La Roche-Posay Serozinc / Darphin Intral Toner
– Hydraluron / Paula’s Choice Resist Ultra-Light Antioxidant Serum
– LRP eye cream / Shiseido
– LRP Toleriane moisturizer / Algenist
– some sort of acne treatment if needed (Effaclar Duo or topical treatment)

The Night Routine:
– 1st cleansing: Fancl Mild Cleansing Oil
– POD Liquid Detox
– Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 10%
– Hydraluron / Paula’s Choice Resist Ultra-Light Antioxidant Serum
– LRP eye cream / Shiseido
– Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid Moisturizer OR Algenist (alternate evenings)
– Adapalene cream

I feel the need to bring that up again because it *is* responsible for kick starting the change in my skin. The most important players in that list are: Adapalene cream (I will write about this), PTR Glycolic Acid (especially the toner) and perhaps the POD cleanser. It’s important to finish with a good moisturizer. Eye creams are mostly the same I’ve found, memorable exception is the one from Astalift, really felt that did something.

Here’s more or less my current skincare:

skincare shelf

Picture taken on vacation, hence decants and rare opportunity to have them all displayed nicely on a glass shelf.

Day:
– (#2) Estee Lauder Perfectly Clean Multi Action Cream Cleanser
– (#3) Biologique Recherche P50V
– (#4) Kose Sekkisei Medicated Lotion (decanted)
– (#5) Nature Republic Snail Solution 70 eye cream
– (#7) Nature Republic Snail Solution 80 ampoule
– (#8) belif moisturizing bomb (sample size, see empties post here) (more…)

2015 Holiday Haul

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Spring collections are already available in some parts of the world, crazy! Bit late to the party as usual, but I thought I would post this anyway since most of the items are still available for purchase. I was pretty much immune from the big names’ Christmas collections this year. The last item to have tempted me was the blush Alezane (?) from Chanel Fall, and for a very brief moment the Gwen Stefani palette from UD. I sprung for these instead:

Shiseido Maquillage Snow Beauty II powder

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Just realised I bought quite a few things from Maquillage this year (the others are lipsticks and their wonderful powder foundation of course). I think they’ve done a nice job of revamping the line. The packaging may not be everyone’s cup of tea but the quality is there.
Snow Beauty powder came under my radar when I chanced upon the spreads they had in all three of the major Japanese beauty magazines that I happened to have. I was drawn by the skin-care ingredients and how they’ve encouraged its use at night before sleeping. This is not exactly part of their holiday collection, but anyway!

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So this is version 2 of the Snow Beauty powder. I read that it’s pretty much the same as last year’s release except the packaging is slightly different. It comes with 2 puffs, one significantly puffier than the other. The fat one really allows a liberal application, good for night time use only. If you use this during the day you will look really powdery and chalky. The powder itself is fine and is a truly translucent. I have no problem getting a beautiful finish with the flat puff. It’s lightly perfumed, the soothing kind of fragrance. Nothing sharp. I actually enjoy the scent. (more…)